King Midas and the Gordion Knot: We made a detour near the city of Polati to see the site of Gordian, the former capital of the Phrygian kingdom. What is left of this great capital is located in a small village in the middle of the Anatolian plain. The western road leading towards that village […]
Western Anatolia – first half of July 2004
Along the Marmara Sea: We managed to tear ourselves away from Istanbul after over 5 weeks. Five weeks to tour the city, take in its sights, apply for and wait for the Iranian visa, receive the last of our vaccines, and especially wait for our packages at the post office. Mom’s package with my allergy […]
Exploring Istanbul
The Grand Bazaar: Wandering the streets of the Grand Bazaar is one of the highlights of any trip to Istanbul. This covered market in the center of historic Istanbul has 4000 boutiques, mosques, fountains, restaurants, banks, and workshops bunched together along several kilometers of streets. Each profession has its own street or section of the […]
The People, the Religion, the Dress, the Customs
The People, the Religion, the Dress, the Customs: Religion: Although Turkey is a secular state, religion plays a large role in the lives of most of its citizens. Over 99% of the country’s population is Muslim, mostly Sunnite. Istanbul is no exception. The term “Muslim” means “one who has submitted himself to the will of […]
Istanbul – June 2004
The Arrival: The previous day I had wished for a hot shower and a glass of cold juice. I had gotten both. On Thursday I wished for a truck to stop and to take us and the bikes to Istanbul. Stephane told me I was dreaming. “Okay, then,” I said, “let me have my dreams.” […]
Arrival in Turkey – Thrace – late May 2004
The Arrival: It was only 5 km. from our camping spot at the small church high in the mountains to the Turkish border, but it seemed like 50. It was extremely steep and very, very hot. Reminded me of the heat wave we had in France last year. As before, we passed vineyards, mountains, forests, […]
Central Black Sea Coast and eastern Palnina Mountains – mid-May 2004
Varna to Nessebar: The Black Sea Coast in Bulgaria is absolutely gorgeous. One-third of the country is wooded, and the areas along the coast are almost completely covered in forests: thick, dense, and very green. There are many trails; they reminded me of the woods near our cabin in the Delaware Valley. The stretch of […]
The Northern Black Sea Coast – mid-May 2004
The Northern Black Sea Coast: It was a lazy Sunday afternoon when we crossed the border 2 km. south of Vama Veche. We pedaled 65 km. under a bright blue sky along the northern Black Sea Coast. It was savage, wild, wooded – the contrast of what we had seen in Romania. We picnicked on […]
Northern Bulgaria, Dracula s Country – end of March 2004
Northern Bulgaria, Dracula’s Country: We cycled 85 km. from Zimnicea to Giurgiu, in Romania, still along the Danube, in the direction of Ivanovo, in Bulgaria. We waited ages at the Bulgarian customs for busloads of passengers. The view from the 2-km. long bridge connecting Romania and Bulgaria was pretty if you looked only at the […]
Northwestern Bulgaria, late March 2004
Northwestern Bulgaria, end of March 2004: We passed from Serbia into the extreme northwestern corner of Bulgaria on a Tuesday evening. The frontier town was Bregovo, a small village with a bumpy main road and dirt side roads where cows, horses, goats, and donkeys roamed free. Topped with orange shingles, the houses looked more solid […]