Summary of Romania

The people: Friendly, welcoming, warm hosts, handsome, mostly dark, but some are fair. There is a certain Roman distrust towards the gypsies, whom they see as lazy, dishonest, beggars, and sometimes thieves. Often speak French or Russian. Starting to speak English in the larger towns. What you see: Like stepping back 100 years in time. […]

Fields of Flowers and the Black Sea Coast – early May 2004

After our ferry ride back to Tulcea from the Delta, we left the port town and headed south towards Constanta. Our ride to the coast was characterized by two things: fields of flowers and a very strong wind. There were mainly three types of fields that we passed: those that were cultivated and that were […]

Crisan, In the heart of the Danube Delta – end of April 2004

Ferry Ride: The ferry ride to Crisan was more interesting than that to Sfintu Gheorghe. Prettier. It was mainly swampland, as in the Sfintu Gheorghe arm, but the principal difference being that there were some more signs of habitation, however small. There were wild horses and cows grazing on strips of land no more than […]

Ferry to Sfintu Gheorghe and the Black Sea – mid-April 2004

Ferry to Sfintu Gheorghe… There are no roads connecting any of the towns or villages in the Delta area; everything travels by boat or by ferry. But we had wanted to see where the Danube actually empties into the Black Sea. We had followed it from its source in the Black Forest in Germany through […]

Tulcea and our Floating Palace – second half of April 2004

Arrival in Tulcea… When we awoke on Thursday morning, the clearing sky gave us a renewed sense of purpose and renewed hope. The remaining 22 km. to Tulcea were difficult, but not impossible. The wind still blew, though not as strongly, and we advanced slowly. It was all uphill towards Tulcea, then the city streets […]

The Tempest – mid-April 2004

We left our perfect spot in the woods on the Monday morning after Easter, not without a shade of misgiving on my part because it looked like it might rain, and we could have stayed in our current spot for a week to wait out a storm, if need be, and not have caused a […]

Easter in the Countryside – April 2004

Easter: Red Eggs, Mitei, and Cake: We said our good-byes to Alex and to Valentina and her family and found ourselves once again on our bikes. It felt good to be biking again. We camped that evening in a secluded woods, far from the surrounding villages. I was happy – here, we could sleep in […]

Bucharest – first week of April 2004

Back to Romania with gypsy music and flowers… After visiting Ivanovo in Bulgaria, which was so beautiful, so awesome, we crossed the Friendship Bridge back across the Danube into Romania. We wanted to camp that night, but could find nowhere to put our tent. There were open, rolling fields in every direction. We ended up […]

The Romanian Countryside – April 2004

We have had a fabulous time in Romania so far. The people are wonderful hosts. We’ve stayed with many families. Usually it starts like this…we stop along a bench in a small village to eat our lunch, then someone comes out of the house or down the street, and talks to us and ends up […]

“The Bitter War” – end of January 2004

“The Bitter War” – end of January 2004 After leaving Vukovar behind in a white cloud of fog and snow, we continued on towards Serbia. We stopped not far from the border, where we spent the evening in the company of Ivka, her 17-year old son Ante, her 24-year old daughter Josipa, her sister Paula, […]

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