Imam Khomeini Square in Esfahan
The square was classified as a World Heritage site in 1979 as a unique testament to the social and cultural life of the Safavid era and for the exceptional beauty of its architecture. The Square is considered to be one of the most beautiful in the world and is without doubt one of the most impressive examples of Persian architecture in Iran. Constructed in 1612, it is the second largest square in the world (500 m. long X 162 m. wide).
It is in the middle of Esfahan and is an ideal place to stroll, walk, drink tea in one of many teahouses, or enter one of the many bazaars in the town. The square is completely encircled by a series of arcades that join the entrance to the bazaar, the royal mosque, the palace, and the Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque, each one situated in the middle of one side of the square. Below the archways, between the palace and the Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque, one can see a series of 99 small chambers. This number – 99 – has a religious significance for Muslims because Allah has 100 names – but only 99 that are known by his followers. Although we did not verify it, we were told that each of the chambers served as a private room for one of the mistresses of the king (who had over 400 wives and concubines!).
Imam Mosque:
One of the chef d’oeuvres of our voyage, this building is immense and is entirely covered – both inside and outside – by blue tiles. It is the famous “blue” of Iran. Shah Abbas I constructed the mosque between 1612 and 1638, and it considered to be one of the most beautiful mosques in the world.
The first thing that one sees when one arrives at the square is the enormous blue dome (54 m.) next to two large, turquoise minarets (42 m.). The mosque faces Mecca. The monumental entranceway (ornamented in gold and silver) is one of the most beautiful examples of Safavid art (1502-1722). One enters by a corridor that leads to the central courtyard, which is today unfortunately filled with metal structures and tents that allow the faithful to pray in the shade, but which hide the upper parts of the mosque from view. Aesthetically, it is a shame.
The courtyard contains a basin used for ritual cleansing. Rectangular halls line the sides, the largest one facing Mecca. From the interior of this hall, the excellent acoustics make it possible to hear the Imam’s prayer from everywhere in the mosque. A black stone on the floor points out the spot that has the best acoustics, from which point any sound will echo 12 times. The decoration on all of the walls, the cupola, and the minarets is composed of tiles, mosaics, and polychrome ceramics.
Ali Qapu Palace:
In front of the Sheik Lotfollah Mosque, the principal attraction of this small, six-story palace is in the view that it affords over the square. It no longer contains the rich decorations of yesteryear. At one time, the palace served as the place where the king would watch polo matches that took place in the center of the square. The polo matches were organized especially for the King’s pleasure (today, local artisans paint miniature camel bone boxes, jewellery, and wall decorations with images of the once-popular polo matches). Large fountains in the center of the square have replaced the polo matches.
Sheik Lotfollah Mosque:
This mosque is my favorite building of Esfahan. It was built in 20 years by Shah Abbas and dedicated to his father-in-law, the Sheik Lotfollah. Like the Royal Mosque, it is covered in tiles – the famous “Esfahan blue.” From the interior, one can observe the great detail of the mosaics that completely cover the central dome. This mosque is composed uniquely of a prayer hall crowned by a cupola. There is no minaret or central courtyard in this mosque; it is completely enclosed, and though there are 16 small windows at the top, there is little light that penetrates. The interior facades of the mosque are considered incomparable chefs d’oeuvres of tile and mosaic art.
This mosque is sometimes called the “Women’s Mosque,” not because it was reserved for women, but because it is said that there was a subterranean corridor that led from the palace to the mosque, and thus the women of the court could go from the palace to the mosque without being seen in public.