Strasbourg

In the far northeastern corner of France, Strasbourg, and the “Big Island”, is surrounded by the Ill River. It was classified as a World Heritage site by the UNESCO in 1988 because it is a perfect illustration of a medieval town. Instead of housing isolated monuments, its buildings of interest, including the cathedral, its four ancient churches, and the Rohan Palace (former residence of the prince-bishops), are located within a small area. This district has not only kept the characteristics of a medieval town, but also illustrates the town’s evolution between the 15th and 18th centuries.

Some History…

Discovered by Caesar’s army in 58 BC, Strasbourg was probably a small community of fisherman. Four decades later, they built a “miniature Rome” by constructing a fortified buttress on the island. The town was known for its ceramics, its glass, and its arms. For almost four centuries, the “pax romana” reigned on the island until the invasion of the alamans in 352. The invasion of the barbares in 406 and the Huns in 451 left behind blackened walls and a pile of ashes.

The town was rebuilt, and, during the Middle Ages, had only a mediocre importance. Then came the age of the prince-bishops and the era of religious expansion which permitted Strasbourg to become an economic center once again. It was taken under the possession of the Holy German Roman Empire during the 13th-century, while conserving certain privileges. It reached greatness during the 16th-century in the arts as well as in the production of arms. The Cathedral, whose first stone was layed during the 11th-century, was completed in the middle of the 15th century. It was the marvel of Christendom, as it reached heights no other Cathedral before it had obtained.

The end of the 16th-century and the 17h-century was not kind to Strasbourg. The plague hit hard, in 1564, 1586-7, and again in 1609. The population was decimated, and after the war of the bishops between 1592 and 1604, the town was again ruined. The Thirty Years War struck, and with the Treaty of Wesphalie in 1648, the region of Alsace passed to France. Strasbourg conserved several of its privileges in terms of government and constitution and only became part of the French territory in 1681.

Strasbourg remained part of France for almost two hundred years until it – and the entire Alsace region – was annexed by Prussia during the War of 1870-71. It re-passed into French hands in 1918 after the First World War and remained there until 1940, when it was re-taken by Hitler’s army. It was liberated by the French in 1944 and has since remained an uncontested part of France.

Because of its strategic position between France and Germany, it was chosen to be the seat of the Council of Europe in 1949, a symbol of the unity between these two countries and more largely a symbol of European unity and construction. It is the headquarters of numerous European organizations, the most important of which are the European Parliament and the International Human Rights Institute.

Today home to about 400,000 inhabitants, Strasbourg is a town which continues to assert itself economically, politically, and culturally. The second largest river port in France after Paris, and it is an important intellectual and artistic center.

And now, our impressions…

The historical center of Strasbourg, mainly centered around the Cathedral and the neighborhood called “La Petite France,” is quite charming. The cobble-stoned streets are filled with pedestrians and bicyclists and the terraces are over-flowing with people enjoying a glass of fresh beer in genuine Alsatian style. We picnicked by the river, watched boats pass through the canals, admired the architecture, and spoiled ourselves on the local baked goods «see picture».

The section called “La Petite France”, once dominated by tanners, is resplendent with its half-timbered houses built during the Renaissance «see picture». The quarter has kept its authenticity and its charm. In walking down the streets, you imagined life as it would have been several centuries ago and half-expected a horse and carriage to pass you by. We admired the city from a panoramic terracce found in this old neighborhood «see picture».

The Cathedral, one of the great successes of French gothic architecture, was completed in 1439, and at 142 m. (426 ft.), was one of the highest pinnacles in Christendom until the 19th century. Elegant and impressive architecturally, it dominates the center of the town. It is remarkable in the fact that, with only one tower, it was never finished (cathedrals normally have two towers). The Cathedral has been completely restored after the shellings of 1870 and 1944. It has been widely admired as one of the most beautiful testaments to God. Goethe spoke of the Cathedral as “thrusting up a huge wall to heaven, like the most sublime, wide-spreading tree of God, proclaiming the glory of the Lord…” «see picture»

There is an immense 48 ft.-high, 21 ft.-long astronomical clock at the front of the church which was finished in 1570. In terms of painting and sculpture, it contains features from both the Gothic and Renassaince epochs. There is a showing every day at noon, when the clock sounds and sets a series of actions in motion. The four different stages of life are depicted as an infant, an adolescent, an adult, and an old person are seen passing before death’s door. The seven different stories of the clock indicate the month and year, the Greenwich Meridian Time and the time by the sun, while the twelve apostles march before Christ, angels revolve over hourglasses, and a cock crows «see picture».

Strategically located along the German border, Strasbourg has a rather unique position in France today. Because of its location and the fact that it has passed back and forth between Germany and France throughout the centuries, it has a unique dialect. Called Alsatian, it has no connection to French. It has German roots, but even the Germans are not able to understand it.

Strasbourg has many traditions that have been passed down from its days as part of the German Empire. The celebrated Christmas fair is one of them. Also, the Alsatian cuisine is unique in France. Sauerkraut is a local specialty, as well as “le baeckoffe,” a stew made of potatoes, porc, beef, and lamb. Bakeries are full of “bretzels,” which are found only in this region.

Strasbourg is a charming and beautiful city. International and cosmopolitan on one hand, it is also small enough to be intimate to both its inhabitants and visitors alike. As the capital of Alsace, it holds a unique place in the history and culture of France.