The Monastic Island of Reichenau

A Little History…
Reichenau Island was classified by the UNESCO in 2000 for its religious and cultural significance as a great Benedictine monastery during the early Middle Ages. We spent an entire day visiting the island, which, today, is still a flourishing garden that the monks started over a millenium ago. The area of the island is 1,062 acres, almost 60% of which is cultivated for fruits and vegetables. Abbot Ermenrich of Ellwangen, schooled at Reichenau in the ninth century, wrote about the island:

O Reichenau, thou verdant isle, more blessed by far than others,
Thou art rich in the treasures of knowledge and the piety of thine inhabitants,
Rich in the fruit of the orchard and the bulging grape of the vineyard:
Thou art ever in blossom, and the lily is mirrored in the lake.
Thy fame resounds as far as the mist-enshrouded land of the Britons.

The island was given almost a dozen different names by the monks and one of them, “Rich Island” was translated into Old German as Richenow, becoming present-day Reichenau.

Located in Lake Constance along the German-Swiss border, the island is reached from the mainland by following a stretch of road several kilometers long lined with poplar trees. Visitors to the island today come principally to visit the three churches and look for traces of the sons of Saint Benedict.

The monastic community was started in the year 724 AD by Saint Pirminius, who collaborated with Charles Martel, Charlemagne’s grandfather. Although Saint Pirminius left the island after three years, the monastery became an important religious and cultural center as well as a scholarly outpost of the West during the Carolingian and Ottonian days.

The ninth century collection at Reichenau was one of the most important libraries of the day and it was during the same time period that the abbey reached the height of its splendor and drawing power. It reached another high point in the tenth and eleventh centuries in the art of the goldsmith and the illumination of manuscripts.

It was just after this artistic peak that the nobility started requiring from the twelfth century on that the Abbey of Reichenau not only educate their sons, but that it be reserved for them alone. This was the beginning of the end for Reichenau. Already in 1339, Pope Benedict XII complained that “At one time sixty to seventy monks wore Benedictine garb in Reichenau. But then years ago a nasty practice crept in whereby no more monks were admitted unless both parents were of noble birth.”

By the mid-18th century, the monastery was dissolved with papal consent, and in 1803, Reichenau was secularized as an episcopal estate and the monastery became a parish church. All three churches on the island are today Roman Catholic parish churches.

The Minster of St. Mary
The largest church on the island is the Minster of St. Mary, which was consecrated in 1048. It clearly shows two styles of architecture: Romanesque and Gothic. It is built above the foundations of the earliest churches, which were built in the eighth century. The abbey contains a clearly visible oak roof frame, which was made from oak trees felled in 1236. The entire construction and 86% of the original oak has been retained.

Because it was a significant artistic center, the monastery was of great significance to the history of art in Europe in the 10th and 11th centuries. This is one of the reasons that the abbey was classified by the UNESCO. Its artistic significance is extremely well illustrated by its monumental wall paintings and its illuminations.

Each period added something to the interior of the abbey so that a mix of eras (Romanesque, Gothic, Renaissance) can be seen in the furnishings and the ornamentation. The treasure room contains quality art treasures dating from the twelfth century.

The Abbey Church is spacious and simple upon entering, which I liked. But I was fond neither of the altar nor of the choir. It was enclosed by a huge ornate black metal gate, which partially blocked the view and also disturbed the lines and the flow of the church. It seemed as if one’s vision was meant to be directed towards the tall stained glass windows at the front of the church, a line which was interrupted by the harsh imposing gate. In addition, the stained glass windows were red – very red. Almost like blood, I thought. Standing before the windows, you had the impression as the rays of sun filtered through that you were bathed in a sea of brilliant red. Normally I feel a wave of tranquility and even wonder as I regard stained glass windows, which are for the most part magnificent. But before these windows, I felt nothing of the sort. Rather the opposite. Probably it was not only the color, but also the design which affected me. With the sharp pointy edges of their geometrical designs, these windows were like none I’ve seen previously. It was as if modern art had invaded a church built during the Middle Ages.

Another figure which left an impression on me, though admittedly not a good one, was the monument of the Pieta, built around 1350, in which Jesus is slowly and painfully dying. With eyes closed and looking as though he’s given up all hope, his wounds are agonizingly graphic, with his organs dribbling out where he’s been wounded. Imagine taking your child to church every Sunday to behold this terrifying image not of hope, but of suffering and agony. It’d likely give him nightmares.

I have to remind you, though, that this is just my personal impression of the Abbey. As for the monument of Jesus, it’s hardly surprising that it didn’t take my fancy, as I’ve never been fond of medieval art. And as for the altar gate and the stained glass windows, Stéphane was impressed and truly did find it beautiful. To each one his own.

In order to see the picture proposed by the UNESCO of the Minster of St. Mary, please click «here».

The Church of St. George
The Church of St. George is the church that greets every visitor as they arrive onto the island. It is beautifully simple, both inside and out. The earliest structure, built during the 9th century, was largely preserved during later construction in the 10th, 11th, and 14th centuries. All of the churches on Reichenau, including St. George, retain remarkable elements of several stages of construction. It is for this reason that they offer outstanding examples of monastic architecture in central Europe from the 9th through the 11th centuries and also one reason why they are classified and protected by the UNESCO.

The Church of Saint George was built when Abbot Hatto (Heito) III (888-913) brought back relics of St. George as a gift from Pope Formosus in Rome. Early Christians often built churches over the graves of saints that were especially venerated. The saint’s grave was usually located beneath the main altar. The saint’s grave later became the repository of the relics. It is thought that the crypt (closed to the public) beneath the Church of St. George was built for his relics.

This church is extraordinary in the fact that the imagery in its murals has been preserved. As H. Jantzen puts it: “If we did not have the small Church of St. George in Reichenau, we could hardly imagine what tenth-century murals looked like.” All of the murals illustrate gospel readings of the mass. They are to be viewed in order.

The interior framework of the church is square – there are no ceiling arches. Except for the pastel murals, there is not much ornamentation, aside from a few small statues, notably one depicting the crucifixion of Christ. Windows lining the upper walls of the church let the sun through and allow one to gaze on ten-century year-old murals, that, although faded, are still a marvel to behold.

In order to see the picture proposed by the UNESCO of the church of St. George of Oberzell, please click «here».

The Church of Sts. Peter and Paul
The third church on the island of Reichenau is the Church of Sts. Peter and Paul, which was consecrated in the year 799. The church and the monastic buildings were razed after two fires towards the end of the eleventh century and replaced by the current church. Construction of the existing church was completed in 1134. Tests indicate that the Romanesque woodwork that survives in the attic was from trees felled between about 1040 and 1134. After archaeological excavations, the church was restored between 1970 and 1977.

A mural which was rediscovered in 1900 can be dated to between 1104 and 1126. It is the last major example of Reichenau painting that has been preserved. Towards the end of the same century, a series of scenes from Jesus’ passion was painted on the walls of the chapel.

The austerity of the Romanesque basilica was covered with the brightness of Rococo stucco during the late Baroque era (mid-eighteenth century). The ceilings of the church were first painted in 1906 in neo-Baroque style.

The Church of Sts. Peter and Paul was the church that I preferred by far. It was a small and intimate church and very beautiful. As you entered the church, you faced the altar, which showcased a beautiful stained glass window surrounded by the mural painting previously alluded to. The mural was painted in pastel blues, oranges, and peaches, the same colors found in the murals of the Church of St. George. The coloring of the mural was better-preserved, however. The top of the mural shows a larger than life Christ surrounded by an eagle, a lion, an ox, and an angel – the symbols of the four evangelists. The apostles Peter and Paul stand to either side of Christ and are bordered by angels. Below this scene is a line of the twelve apostles representing the New Testament and below this, a line of twelve prophets representing the Old Testament.

There is a beautiful pipe organ to the back of the church which was built in the late 18th-century. As opposed to some churches and cathedrals which, though beautiful, are dark and somber, the Church of Sts. Peter and Paul has a feeling of airiness and lightness to it. It is due to the pastel colors of the large mural painting, the side walls which are painted white, and the ample sunshine which enters through the windows which were enlarged in the eighteenth century. German choral music resonates throughout the church.

In order to see the picture proposed by the UNESCO of the church of St. Peter and Paul, please click «here».

As noted earlier, the Island of Reichenau is no longer home to a monastic community. The three churches today operate as Roman Catholic parish churches.

Aside from Reichenau’s churches, I particularly enjoyed the green landscape of the island complemented by its patchwork of vegetable gardens and vineyards. The varied and sometimes immense flower gardens provided a rainbow of color. The mountains of Switzerland and the sailboats across the lake provided the perfect backdrop.