“The Bitter War” – end of January 2004

After leaving Vukovar behind in a white cloud of fog and snow, we continued on towards Serbia. We stopped not far from the border, where we spent the evening in the company of Ivka, her 17-year old son Ante, her 24-year old daughter Josipa, her sister Paula, and her nephew Nikola. The family was friendly, eager to talk. We had more of the omnipresent Croatian saucisse and found out that every family in this part of the country makes their own.

We watc.. Read More »

“Danger Mines” – end of January 2004

We passed Beli Monastir and enormous brown fields. Grey houses and grey neighborhoods, falling apart, caving in. Poor. We passed Osijek, where we stopped on a park bench to eat. One man passed us by, took a look at our bikes, and kept saying, “Jesus, Jesus.” The suburbs were grey and ugly. Large, cheap apartment buildings and little shacks. We passed entire neighborhoods that were abandoned. Apartment and office buildings with the windows blown out. Along .. Read More »

The Farm in Croatia – end of January 2004

We had the luxury of sleeping in the next day, then we ate with Katarina, her son Zjelco, and their neighbor Josef. Zjelco is a baker, and the bread and pastries we had for breakfa.. Read More »

“There’s no moon in Croatia” – end of January 2004

“There’s no moon in Croatia.” That’s the first thing Stephane noticed as we crossed the border. The bright moon from Hungary had disappeared. We had left the Terminator house early in the morning and cycle.. Read More »